Lip liners can bring to mind some horrifying images of stark dark lines and mismatched lip color. But lip liners aren’t meant to be clown makeup at all.

Lining your lips will help define them, and keep lipstick from bleeding. The key is the shade you use and the method of application. Choose a shade that closely matches your lip color or you may choose a neutral shade that compliments your skin tones. Make sure your lip pencil is sharp so you can make a finely drawn line.

Women with thin lips who want them to look fuller are often advised to apply the lipliner outside the natural lip line to create an illusion of fuller lips. This technique is used by professional makeup artists but often goes awry when attempted by an unskilled hand. If you decide to use liner to alter the shape or appearance of your lips, make sure you have a steady hand and don’t overreach. Lines drawn too far above or below the natural lip line look unnatural and clownish.

The best method is to line very carefully, drawing from middle to corner on the upper lip, just on or inside the natural lip line. Draw from corner to corner on the lower. Then apply liner to the whole lip, use much less product and blend with a fingertip. This will make a base for your lipstick and increase it’s wear time. Finally, apply your lipstick or lip color and finish by blotting excess.